The pattern name of this black and white image is Pine Cone Bloom, also called Pine Bloom and Pine Burr. The back of this photograph is marked: "No.11, Isle of Patmos, Union Co. Tenn. Pineburr-". Coverlet pattern names were never standardized thus a variation in pattern name is quite common from state to state and region to region. Frances Goodrich, founder of Allanstand Cottage Industries, collected the photograph. In "The Book of Handwoven Coverlets, " published in 1912 by Eliza Calvert Hall (1856-1935), this identical pattern appears noting the multiple names of Sea Star, Sea Shell, Isle of Patmos, Gentleman's Fancy, and Lady's Fancy according to the locality in which it is woven. Goodrich's work reviving traditional weaving in the mountains of western North Carolina during the late 1890s and early 1900s led her to collect weaving patterns much in the same way that others of that era were collecting mountain songs. Goodrich kept extensive records of the weave patterns and variations that she came across in her travels. Her research may have provided background for or influenced what was woven and sold through her Allanstand Cottage Industries.